Being born in a place surrounded by picturesque mountains- Kurseong, Darjeeling, Dhendup Lama knew from a young age, there was no way he was going to escape its beauty. His love for nature and all things adventurous got him into the travel and adventure industry where he worked as a freelance trek leader; organizing different expeditions in Nepal and India before moving to US in the late 90s. While in the US, he completed a diploma for outdoor educator (mountaineering). Throughout his 12 years stay in the US; Lama says he had one thing in mind- "to return back home and back to the mountains", where he says he finds "solace."
After returning home in 2010, he started devising a plan that would not only challenge his own abilities as a traveler but also serve as a motivation to the youth who refrain from traveling within their own country. This plan he called "Across the Himalayan: An Odyssey", a plan partially fulfilled this December when he completed the Great Himalayan Trail in 110 days.
Dhendup Lama now looks forward to his second leg of the expedition- trekking through the Himalayas from Arunachal Pradesh (North India) to Pakistan-Afghan border. WAVE sat down with the 36 year old before he left to complete his mission.
How did the idea for this expedition come about?
The initial idea was born towards the end of 2009 after I made up my mind to return back home. I was coming back to my country after 12 years and had no idea what I was going to do once I returned. One thing I knew for sure was I wanted to go out into the mountains which always provided me solace. Although I had trekked before, I had never done anything of this level. This excited me even more. After I read about the Great Himalaya Trail, I knew this was what I wanted to do.
What next?
I plan to traverse all the regions of the Himalayas, from the base of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan to the Siang River in Arunachal Pradesh. In Arunachal Pradesh we will start our trek from Tawang (on the Indo-Chinese border) and end up at a place in Anini. The trek will take around one and a half months. I plan to cover the entire Himalayas by April 2013.
Your second leg of the expedition includes trekking in India and Pakistan. Is there any nervousness?
There's always a little bit of nervousness and excitement. But I am looking forward to every bit of the whole experience. There's no good or bad, black and white, I believe we learn from every little thing.
What is your main objective behind setting on this expedition?
Whenever we talk about adventure tourism, the first thing that comes to our mind is Westerners. We have adventure, right here that has not been exposed and experienced. I think it is time we set examples for the youth and inspire them from ourselves. This is what I tend to do with my expedition; to give a message that anybody who has enthusiasm can do this.
What do you want to achieve travel-wise?
So far whatever is being done in adventure sector, whatever you read, it's all from a western perspective. I want to give my own perspective on that. I want to create enthusiasm among younger generation to show that you don't have to be a big ass, you don't have to wait for the time when you have money and resources, by then it will be too late. All you need is enthusiasm. It doesn't have to be an expedition like this but even going for a one week trek is a start.
Tell us about your experience.
We started from Darchula in Mahakali district of western Nepal on August 15, 2011 and reached Pashupatinagar (Ilam) in eastern Nepal on December 9. My companion and I carried a load of 20-25 kgs, for 110 days. I had some really precious moments with the people in the most remote of areas. It was the joy, happiness, the smiling faces, their contentment with what they have in the harshest of environments and simplicity of life encouraged me to keep going. Even if there were many down times, they were erased because of such moments.
Most memorable moment
There are many memorable memories that remain etched in my mind but arriving at Thugh-la pass remains the most humbling moment of all. I just felt at peace there. Overall, this expedition has been a very memorable one for I have never done such a thing before.
What kind of thrill do you get from travelling?
More than thrill, it is the cultural experience that I get that is gratifying. I enjoy doing what I do. What I enjoyed about the GHT is the versatility in the accommodation of the wholesomeness of a worthy adventure experience. It also allowed me to experience the Nepali Himalaya the way I had never had before.
Most Nepali travelers complain of a differential treatment towards them as opposed to foreigners. What do you think about this attitude?
This attitude of the villagers is an understandable attitude, because they know the value of dollars. How much Nepalis go travelling? The villagers see more tourists than Nepalis. There is a trust factor already established. They rely on foreigners for income and improvement in lifestyle. However, that needs to change. Personally, I don't mind because I take every experience and encounter as a learning opportunity.
What was the most unpleasant memory of the entire trek?
There was none because I went on my own choice. Even when things didn't go according to the plan or we didn't have enough to eat, I was happy and had no complaints. This is something I had chosen to do and I enjoyed every aspect of the travel.
Did you ever get lost?
Yes, I did. Many times, there was no food. It was just a cup of coffee a day but those were the best moments. It builds your personality. The villagers go through it every day and for me it was just a temporary phase.
Any survival tips for people wishing to trek in a similar way.
If you can survive Kathmandu, you can survive anywhere (laughs). You have to have a basic knowledge about treks and expeditions. I don't think there is any particular body that provides such knowledge. The Internet is a great source to gain information.
You mentioned that there is lack of books documenting adventure from eastern perspective? Have you considered writing one?
Yes, I have thought about it. I am taking pictures, and writing as well. Hopefully, something will come out of it in the near future.
What are the must places to see in Nepal?
For me, it is the remote regions in the far-western region of Nepal. Sum Valley has the best people in Nepal because I feel they are the happiest people in Nepal. Langtang was a major disappointment though.
Interviewed by Tsering Dolker Gurung
After returning home in 2010, he started devising a plan that would not only challenge his own abilities as a traveler but also serve as a motivation to the youth who refrain from traveling within their own country. This plan he called "Across the Himalayan: An Odyssey", a plan partially fulfilled this December when he completed the Great Himalayan Trail in 110 days.
Dhendup Lama now looks forward to his second leg of the expedition- trekking through the Himalayas from Arunachal Pradesh (North India) to Pakistan-Afghan border. WAVE sat down with the 36 year old before he left to complete his mission.
How did the idea for this expedition come about?
The initial idea was born towards the end of 2009 after I made up my mind to return back home. I was coming back to my country after 12 years and had no idea what I was going to do once I returned. One thing I knew for sure was I wanted to go out into the mountains which always provided me solace. Although I had trekked before, I had never done anything of this level. This excited me even more. After I read about the Great Himalaya Trail, I knew this was what I wanted to do.
What next?
I plan to traverse all the regions of the Himalayas, from the base of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan to the Siang River in Arunachal Pradesh. In Arunachal Pradesh we will start our trek from Tawang (on the Indo-Chinese border) and end up at a place in Anini. The trek will take around one and a half months. I plan to cover the entire Himalayas by April 2013.
Your second leg of the expedition includes trekking in India and Pakistan. Is there any nervousness?
There's always a little bit of nervousness and excitement. But I am looking forward to every bit of the whole experience. There's no good or bad, black and white, I believe we learn from every little thing.
What is your main objective behind setting on this expedition?
Whenever we talk about adventure tourism, the first thing that comes to our mind is Westerners. We have adventure, right here that has not been exposed and experienced. I think it is time we set examples for the youth and inspire them from ourselves. This is what I tend to do with my expedition; to give a message that anybody who has enthusiasm can do this.
What do you want to achieve travel-wise?
So far whatever is being done in adventure sector, whatever you read, it's all from a western perspective. I want to give my own perspective on that. I want to create enthusiasm among younger generation to show that you don't have to be a big ass, you don't have to wait for the time when you have money and resources, by then it will be too late. All you need is enthusiasm. It doesn't have to be an expedition like this but even going for a one week trek is a start.
Tell us about your experience.
We started from Darchula in Mahakali district of western Nepal on August 15, 2011 and reached Pashupatinagar (Ilam) in eastern Nepal on December 9. My companion and I carried a load of 20-25 kgs, for 110 days. I had some really precious moments with the people in the most remote of areas. It was the joy, happiness, the smiling faces, their contentment with what they have in the harshest of environments and simplicity of life encouraged me to keep going. Even if there were many down times, they were erased because of such moments.
Most memorable moment
There are many memorable memories that remain etched in my mind but arriving at Thugh-la pass remains the most humbling moment of all. I just felt at peace there. Overall, this expedition has been a very memorable one for I have never done such a thing before.
What kind of thrill do you get from travelling?
More than thrill, it is the cultural experience that I get that is gratifying. I enjoy doing what I do. What I enjoyed about the GHT is the versatility in the accommodation of the wholesomeness of a worthy adventure experience. It also allowed me to experience the Nepali Himalaya the way I had never had before.
Most Nepali travelers complain of a differential treatment towards them as opposed to foreigners. What do you think about this attitude?
This attitude of the villagers is an understandable attitude, because they know the value of dollars. How much Nepalis go travelling? The villagers see more tourists than Nepalis. There is a trust factor already established. They rely on foreigners for income and improvement in lifestyle. However, that needs to change. Personally, I don't mind because I take every experience and encounter as a learning opportunity.
What was the most unpleasant memory of the entire trek?
There was none because I went on my own choice. Even when things didn't go according to the plan or we didn't have enough to eat, I was happy and had no complaints. This is something I had chosen to do and I enjoyed every aspect of the travel.
Did you ever get lost?
Yes, I did. Many times, there was no food. It was just a cup of coffee a day but those were the best moments. It builds your personality. The villagers go through it every day and for me it was just a temporary phase.
Any survival tips for people wishing to trek in a similar way.
If you can survive Kathmandu, you can survive anywhere (laughs). You have to have a basic knowledge about treks and expeditions. I don't think there is any particular body that provides such knowledge. The Internet is a great source to gain information.
You mentioned that there is lack of books documenting adventure from eastern perspective? Have you considered writing one?
Yes, I have thought about it. I am taking pictures, and writing as well. Hopefully, something will come out of it in the near future.
What are the must places to see in Nepal?
For me, it is the remote regions in the far-western region of Nepal. Sum Valley has the best people in Nepal because I feel they are the happiest people in Nepal. Langtang was a major disappointment though.
Interviewed by Tsering Dolker Gurung
Source: wavemag.com.np
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