When visiting the Himalayas in Bengal, travellers make a bee-line
for Darjeeling. But tucked inside the hilly road bends are small towns
and villages that are perfect for a relaxed holiday
Darjeeling is too crowded. Kurseong is too quiet. Somewhere in
between lies Kalimpong, offering a slow and immersive travel experience.
Check into a plush heritage hotel in town or choose a comfortable
homestay in any of the mountain hamlets for an escape from the hectic
sightseeing and enjoy your holiday in a more relaxed surrounding
instead. Located in the northern part of West Bengal, Kalimpong is about 50km by road from its more famous neighbour Darjeeling.
Your slow travel through Kalimpong
can begin with a stay at one of the old luxury hotels which nestle
among the pine-clad slopes, away from the bustling town centre. Located
on the Upper Cart Road is the Himalayan Hotel. Once upon a time
Kalimpong was a flourishing trade post on the Trans-Himalayan route and a
strategic town for British India. The Himalayan Hotel is the former
home of a British trading agent (who had served in Tibet) and author
David Macdonald. After his retirement in 1924, he converted a part of
his house into a luxury hotel. The Kalimpong Park Hotel on Rinkingpong
Road is the former residence of a former Bengal royal family from
Dinajpur.
With the snow peaks of the eastern Himalayas, topped by Mt
Kanchenjunga, etching its skyline, Kalimpong sits easy between two
hills, Durpin and Deolo. Built atop the Durpin hill is Morgan House,
once the home of a wealthy British jute baron. Built sometime around
1930, it is now a luxury hotel run by the state tourism department. From
here, you can catch a panoramic view of the snow peaks, on a clear day.
Writers have praised the spectacular sunrise seen from here.
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| Prayer wheels at Zang Dhok Palri Phodang, a Buddhist monastery in Kalimpong |
Located on the same hill is the Zong Dog Palri Fobrong Monastery
built in 1937. Spend a relaxing hour exploring the monastery, enjoying
the sight of the mountains from the roof and a glimpse of the rivers and
springs flowing through the valleys below from the view point opposite
the monastery.
Being on the trade route to Tibet and other Himalayan nations,
Kalimpong attracted many Christian missionaries who wanted to use the
traditional route as a means of furthering their religious cause. On way
to Deolo Hill, you will come across Dr Graham’s Homes. The orphanage
and school set up by the Scottish missionary Dr John Anderson Graham
opened in September 1900 and was gradually expanded. With permission you
may visit the Homes Museum housed in the Murray Cottage and the
Katherine Graham Memorial Chapel (inaugurated in 1925). The hill is also
shared by the Tharpa Choling Gumpha built in 1837 and the reservoirs
supplying drinking water to the region.
Pack in a Wednesday or a Saturday into your itinerary if you want to
catch a sight of Kalimpong’s weekly market, reminiscent of the old
trading days. Also, not to be missed is a visit to any of the many
flower and cacti gardens and nurseries that dot the town.
Kalimpong is also the gateway to several tiny villages
lying off the beaten tourist track. Located about 35km away by road
from Kalimpong is Lava village while Lolaygaon is further 25km away.
Apart from scenic mountain views, the region is also known for its birds
and butterflies. There is a Nature Interpretation Centre in Lava, which
is also the gateway to the Neora Valley National Park. In Lolaygaon,
try a canopy walk across the hanging bridges within the forests of
cypress, oak and fir trees. Lava and Lolaygaon are relatively well known
in the region and offer a mix of hotels and homestays.
If you are not loathe to give up the frills of a luxurious stay, you
may try out places such as Pedong, Rishop, Icchegaon, Ramdhura, Sherpa
Gaon, etc. These hamlets tucked inside the hills offer mountain views
and trekking opportunities. The village homestays offer comfortable
lodgings, home cooked food made from locally grown produce and
opportunities to learn about the lifestyle of the local hill tribes.
Getting there: Kalimpong is nearly 70km by road from
Siliguri, 50km from Darjeeling and 75km from Gangtok. The nearest
airport Bagdogra is 76km away by road. New Jalpaiguri railway station,
with onward connections to rest of the country is 75km away by road.
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